Surfing Day

Hey my name is Toby Cunningham and I am a big wave surfer living in Nazare, Portugal. Being a big wave surfer in Nazare is much different than anywhere else in the world because here you need to know how to drive a ski as well as surfing. Other places not so much. My friends and I joke about it saying that even when they paddle surf here, its hybrid surfing since it is impossible to paddle on a sizeable day without a ski. 

I start my surfing day by first crawling out of bed;). Check the waves at daybreak around 6:30 and decide from there unless I know for sure it is going to be big and perfect. If that’s the case I'll head to the harbour without checking. 

I usually wake up around 6:30am and I'll sleep in occasionally till 7:30. My breakfast consists of hemp seeds, chia seeds, flax seeds, goji berries, pumpkin seeds, bee pollen, raw honey, coconut oil, raw cacao powder and warm water with shredded coconut. Keeps me going almost all day long. 

Other than surfing, I keep in shape by stretching daily, weights at the gym 3 times a week and by doing breathing exercises. 

I usually surf in the morning but it all depends on the wind here. Usually the wind is on the surf pretty early on so if we can get on it before that, it's better for surfing. Otherwise surfing in the wind is incredibly bumpy for not only the surfer but for the driver as well.

The emotions I experience before surfing in Nazare is excitement. You never know what you will experience out there on any given day. Fear is definitely there but as long as you can control it, that is what counts as a surfer but even more so as a driver. 

Being a good driver is much more important than your surfing ability in Nazare. I see so many surfers that spend most their time surfing and very little time driving. This is irresponsible and reckless and quite frankly selfish. Let me explain why. The driver is responsible for rescuing the surfer. Not only that but if the surfer gets in trouble, the driver has to not waste any time to grab the surfer before they drift into the rocks or take a 80 footer on the head. Driving on the inside here is the most dangerous place to put a ski in the world with currents, sideway waves, shore break etc...

Then comes the part where the driver has to position the surfer perfectly on the wave. This will set the surfer up for success or failure depending on how well this is performed. Plus nobody wants to team up with someone who cannot drive a ski. It would be a one way partnership. Andrey Karr has been an incredible partner this year. He is a fantastic driver considering he has only been driving for a couple seasons now. He is focused and committed. 

I fell last year while surfing a massive shallow wave in Easter Island and broke 3 ribs and was out of the water for about 3 months. It was pretty painful and I could barely walk for a couple weeks afterwards. Getting back in the water felt great. I was in Bali surfing Uluwatu about 3 months afterwards. 

Long wipeouts are sometimes fun and sometimes fairly frightening but never panic mode. I just close my eyes and count under water. This way my mind is distracted by my counting instead of focused on me getting thrown around underwater. 

My surfing day ends by cleaning the ski, chilling at home and reading. I am fascinated by economics and geo politics/central bank activities and also make a living doing this. 

My secret is how I was created. I believe everyone was gifted with a special ability and its up to them to find it. We were all created to do something amazing. Most will never find out what their true gifts are but by taking risks in life, you are more likely to find that God given talent in you than if you never take risks. I am no more special than the mathematician who discovered quantum physics. We both found our gift and use it to better the world. 

To get interviewed please contact Olga Canneberges via Facebook 

Aloha, my name is Shannon Marie Quirk (@ShannonReporting) and I am a surfer, television host, journalist, and WSL Big Wave Tour event coordinator. I was born in San Francisco, California and currently live on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. However, my work and surf trips keep me busy with travel, which I appreciate as much as I love being at home in warm water.

My schedule (at this point in my career anyway) completely depends on the weather. If the winds are bad or swell is tiny, I sleep in. Sleep is the most valuable thing for an athelte's muscle recovery, and most of us don't get enough. On the big XXL swells, I get very little sleep, so it balances out. At home in Hawaii, I usually wake up with the sunrise - it's always so beautiful and makes me really grateful to be alive. Here in Nazare, Portugal, the early mornings are really cold and the waves have to be absolutely pumping and perfect to get me out of my warm bed, haha.

While travelling to new places, I have some cheat days where I will try a new plate, but I have found that if I keep my breakfast consistent and light, I feel great all day while surfing. A green smoothie is my favorite, packed with superfoods and supplements from my sponsor Elemental Wizdom. They have Spirulina and plant proteins which give me nutrients and natural energy. I take my supplements everywhere I travel; food is my medicine. I also like to eat protein in the morning - so I make a veggie omlet after surfing or exercise. Mushrooms, kale, spinach... as many greens as I can find. And another coffee.

Yoga is a daily ritual for me, but I will stretch throughout the day no matter where I am or what I'm doing. While watching a movie with friends, I am often on the floor holding my toes or rolling out on a foam roller.

Surfing for me is full of positive energy and makes me really happy. It's my daily medicine, and riding a really good wave gives you a heavy dose of adrenaline and intense gratification. It's addicting like a drug. You always want more and need a heavier dose to fulfil you next time, in the form of bigger and more challenging waves.

Sometimes, though, the ocean humbles you by slamming you down to the bottom of the sand. A bad wipeout can rattle you a bit, but no matter what happens, I come out of the sea as a better human being. The salt water is very healing. I don't like staying dry on land for too long...


After surfing, I take a hot shower and get my yoga pants on. Stretching and foam rollers are the key to quick recovery. If I have been filming or shooting an XXL swell, I go straight to a cafe to upload the best surf clips and send my videos to media outlets. I try to be a timely reporter with surf news, so people usually want to see the waves from that day. I am trying to do more live feeds and lifestreams now to cater to the Facebook audience. Social media is how I end most every day, focused around growing our sport and promoting big wave surfing.


Happiness. Being true to myself and my roots. The more positive people you can surround yourself with, the more laughter and smiles throughout your day. I am grateful for the surf community and the amazing people I meet while traveling who change my perspective and keep me open-minded. In regards to surfing, the secret is to transform fear into action - turning something that would normally hold you back into motivation to train more and work harder. Surfing bigger waves requires mental wellbeing to not panic in terrifying situations, so I focus more energy on my health and finding my "zen". When you face a challenging situation, channel your inner Buddha.