We were all created to do something amazing. One surfing day with big wave surfer Toby Cunningham.

01:47 Olga 0 Comments

Hey my name is Toby Cunningham and I am a big wave surfer living in Nazare, Portugal. Being a big wave surfer in Nazare is much different than anywhere else in the world because here you need to know how to drive a ski as well as surfing. Other places not so much. My friends and I joke about it saying that even when they paddle surf here, its hybrid surfing since it is impossible to paddle on a sizeable day without a ski. 

I start my surfing day by first crawling out of bed;). Check the waves at daybreak around 6:30 and decide from there unless I know for sure it is going to be big and perfect. If that’s the case I'll head to the harbour without checking. 

I usually wake up around 6:30am and I'll sleep in occasionally till 7:30. My breakfast consists of hemp seeds, chia seeds, flax seeds, goji berries, pumpkin seeds, bee pollen, raw honey, coconut oil, raw cacao powder and warm water with shredded coconut. Keeps me going almost all day long. 

Other than surfing, I keep in shape by stretching daily, weights at the gym 3 times a week and by doing breathing exercises. 

I usually surf in the morning but it all depends on the wind here. Usually the wind is on the surf pretty early on so if we can get on it before that, it's better for surfing. Otherwise surfing in the wind is incredibly bumpy for not only the surfer but for the driver as well.

The emotions I experience before surfing in Nazare is excitement. You never know what you will experience out there on any given day. Fear is definitely there but as long as you can control it, that is what counts as a surfer but even more so as a driver. 

Being a good driver is much more important than your surfing ability in Nazare. I see so many surfers that spend most their time surfing and very little time driving. This is irresponsible and reckless and quite frankly selfish. Let me explain why. The driver is responsible for rescuing the surfer. Not only that but if the surfer gets in trouble, the driver has to not waste any time to grab the surfer before they drift into the rocks or take a 80 footer on the head. Driving on the inside here is the most dangerous place to put a ski in the world with currents, sideway waves, shore break etc...

Then comes the part where the driver has to position the surfer perfectly on the wave. This will set the surfer up for success or failure depending on how well this is performed. Plus nobody wants to team up with someone who cannot drive a ski. It would be a one way partnership. Andrey Karr has been an incredible partner this year. He is a fantastic driver considering he has only been driving for a couple seasons now. He is focused and committed. 

I fell last year while surfing a massive shallow wave in Easter Island and broke 3 ribs and was out of the water for about 3 months. It was pretty painful and I could barely walk for a couple weeks afterwards. Getting back in the water felt great. I was in Bali surfing Uluwatu about 3 months afterwards. 

Long wipeouts are sometimes fun and sometimes fairly frightening but never panic mode. I just close my eyes and count under water. This way my mind is distracted by my counting instead of focused on me getting thrown around underwater. 

My surfing day ends by cleaning the ski, chilling at home and reading. I am fascinated by economics and geo politics/central bank activities and also make a living doing this. 

My secret is how I was created. I believe everyone was gifted with a special ability and its up to them to find it. We were all created to do something amazing. Most will never find out what their true gifts are but by taking risks in life, you are more likely to find that God given talent in you than if you never take risks. I am no more special than the mathematician who discovered quantum physics. We both found our gift and use it to better the world. 

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