My secret is Bruce Lee inspired thinking and preparation for whatever may come along.
Hi my name is David Langer. I am a professional big wave rider and jet ski tow in/rescue operator.I love traveling more than surfing, almost. Well, perhaps more, because without finding new places to surf, the experience may not have captivated me as it had, and continues to do so. Finding new places to go, new waves to surf, and new lines to draw on those waves is what fuels me.
My daughter Olivia and her sister Chloe are family I do this for. To inspire them and provide direction so that their lives are as blessed as mine is my main priority besides drinking enough water, eating the proper foods, and getting enough time training to stay prepared for what is coming next.
I start my day by check on the conditions and making a call to my partner Aleman. After a quick injection of fuel follow.
Following some much needed water and a cleanup in the bathroom I'm off to pick my partner up and go get another little snack before heading to the marina. At that point we check on and prepare the equipment before training or heading out to catch some big waves.
I'll eat some chia seed and rice milk homemade "cereal" with goji berries and pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds and fruit like bananas and mango in it. At the cafe perhaps a little bread and butter yet I prefer coconut oil on my toast. Oats with coco powder and honey in it, with some coconut oil is great too. My sponsor, Kind Snacks, makes a series of bars and cereals that provide the perfect nutrition for my daily needs physically.
Besides that I love eggs, French toast, maple syrup, SMS a lot of other breakfast foods. Fruit salads and Acai bowls, vegetable juice and smoothies, it its breakfast I like it.
Shaolin training like stretching and Chi Kung make my training foundation along with cycling and skateboarding.
I love surfing all day, yet the evening seems to be a special time for me. Yet the morning is best, the afternoon is most comfortable... it all seems to be magic.
Emotional content is so important. Focus being paramount, I feel very little emotionally, in fact the focus is 100% on the task ahead which leaves little space for anything else in my head. That is in fact what I love most about sports or other activities that involve adrenaline, like driving. An adrenaline junky is literally what I am. So emotionally I am in love with my life on land. I love being there. In the water I am busy...hahaha.
I end my surfing day with a ritual of reflection and feeding, preparing mentally for the next day, and making sure the equipment is ready. Often this will take much more time than we like, yet it's all worth it in the end.
My secret is Bruce Lee inspired thinking and preparation for whatever may come along.
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Spy on surfers with us! #surfingday
Interviewer: Olga Canneberges. Portugal, Nazare 2017
Spy on surfers with us! #surfingday
Interviewer: Olga Canneberges. Portugal, Nazare 2017
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